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Oceanography

Strictly, “Oceanography” is the scientific study of everything about the oceans.

However, when we refer to “Oceanography” on the programme, we generally imply physical oceanography, the study of the physical properties and phenomena of the ocean, such as temperature, salinity, density, waves, currents and tides. We also include aspects of chemical oceanography like nutrients. Also considered part of this component are some aspects of biological oceanography, particularly those dealing with primary and secondary productivity (plankton), such as in the measurement of chlorophyll-a, both in situ and by remote sensing and through plankton surveys. Essentially, our meaning for “Oceanography” is the study of all physical environmental factors which are not encompassed by Marine Geoscience and includes microscopic organisms not studied under Marine Biology.

Oceanography is vital to understanding the dynamic medium in which marine creatures live. Physical factors such as temperature, currents, nutrients, oxygen and light are critical to the lives of marine organisms, and knowledge of the way in which these change over space (latitude, longitude and depth) and time are critical to our understanding of the biology of all marine organisms.

An understanding of the oceanographic processes which occur in coelacanth habitat helps us to predict where coelacanths are likely to occur and come to understand what physical parameters they are able to tolerate or require.

Although many people do not realise it, particularly those who live far inland, the oceans are the most important factor in global climate, and without a detailed understanding of the way in which the global thermohaline circulation works, we cannot monitor nor predict how this will change due to global warming. Plankton in the oceans are also responsible for generating much of the oxygen we breathe to stay alive. In the same way, our actions on land strongly influence the sea, by introducing pollutants, nutrients, sediment, driving global warming and even acidifying the sea, causing some species of plankton to dissolve.

A detailed understanding of the way in which the physical oceanography interacts with marine life is critical to understanding of rates of recruitment of species important to fisheries and where we should position marine protected areas. It is also critical to our understanding of the productivity which feeds these fisheries and sustains the rich biodiversity of the region.

The oceans are extremely important in the natural global recycling of nutrients critical to life, and we must understand how these complex interactions operate.


The Oceanography component uses a number of methods to gather this data:

  • CTD (Conductivity, Temperature, Depth) is the primary instrument of oceanographic exploration. It allows the measurement of physical parameters such as temperature, salinity and density according to depth. Additional instrumentation can simultaneously record the concentration of dissolved oxygen, chlorophyll-a concentration, turbidity and light intensity. A CTD is usually attached to a rosette, a series of bottles which can be sealed at known depths to take water samples with which we can calibrate sensors and preserve samples for later analysis of nutrient content
  • ADCP (Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler) allows for the measurement of current strength and direction throughout the water column from on board ship or from moorings deployed on the seabed
  • Temperature loggers enable us to deploy long-term monitoring stations which measure temperature for up to a year between visits
  • XBT (eXpendable BathyThermograph) is a single use instrument which is deployed to measure a temperature profile whilst the ship is underway, and particularly in hazardous environments where the risk of losing the CTD is too high
  • Bongo nets are used to gather plankton samples which can be frozen or preserved in formalin for later analysis
  • Satellite drifters provide us with data on how currents flow over the long term over wide areas of the ocean.
  • Remote sensing gathers data from satellites which can give us information on sea surface temperature, ocean colour (chlorophyll-a) and altimetry (height of the ocean). Such information is important to studying long-term trends and large scale features. 

The goals of the Oceanography component are to:

  • To establish a ‘centre of excellence’ in South African east coast and regional oceanography. This team would include the disciplines of physical, chemical, primary & secondary production oceanography, remote sensing, GIS and ocean modelling. Oceanographic infrastructure and expertise is in critical shortage throughout the region, and this must be addressed through a comprehensive scheme to develop technical infrastructure and human capacity
  • To complete and publish an oceanographic study of the Transkei shelf (Algoa Bay to the Kwa-Zulu Natal shelf) with emphasis on understanding the dynamics of larval transport, ecosystem functioning, oceanographic provinces, coelacanth habitat, and the ‘Natal sardine run’
  • To complete and publish a study of the Maputaland-Delagoa Bight cyclonic gyre ecosystem with emphasis on coelacanth habitat and this feature being an important commercial fisheries spawning area and sustaining biodiversity
  • To complete and publish a study of the surface circulation in the Mozambique Channel with emphasis on discerning the sources and beginning of the Agulhas Current, causes of Natal Pulses, and larval transport in the region
  • To complete and publish a study of the East African Coastal Current with emphasis on coelacanth habitat, primary production, and ecosystem functioning of the shelf and island environments and resources

Oceanographic data have been gathered from the entire western Indian Ocean showing trends in temperature, currents, oxygen, salinity, light extinction, primary productivity and secondary productivity. In addition to the region-wide approach which has produced some startling new information, certain areas are being studied in detail.

Satellite drifter data has shown strong evidence supporting the existence of a series of eddies which travel slowly down the Mozambique channel. This eddy theory replaces the established view of a strong, continuous “Mozambique current”. This relatively recent discovery highlights the critical shortage of oceanographic knowledge in the region.

Oceanographic data summary from a cruise around the region in 2003.


The Oceanography team currently comprises:
Co-ordinator: Mike Roberts 
Assistant: Tammy Morris